Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
Author: William Finnegan
Publsiher: Penguin
Total Pages: 384
Release: 2015-07-21
ISBN: 0698163745
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Barbarian Days Book Excerpt:

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Summary of William Finnegan s Barbarian Days

Summary of William Finnegan s Barbarian Days
Author: Milkyway Media
Publsiher: Milkyway Media
Total Pages: 125
Release: 2022-04-28
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Sports & Recreation
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Summary of William Finnegan s Barbarian Days Book Excerpt:

Please note: This is a companion version & not the original book. Book Preview: #1 I was a haole, or white, kid in a primarily Hawaiian school in Honolulu. The other kids made fun of me, and I didn’t have any friends. I was too scared to say anything. #2 I was sent to Kaimuki Intermediate School, a racially segregated school, where I was bullied and had no friends. I was bored in class, and spent most of my time watching the trees outside for wind direction and strength. #3 I was excited to be in Hawaii, and I was surprised by how little surf there was. The waves were small and darkfaced, and the wind offshore. I was worried about the coral reef off the beach. #4 I paddled west along a shallow lagoon, staying close to the shore, for half a mile. The beach houses ended, and the steep, brushy base of Diamond Head itself took their place across the sand. The reef on my left fell away, revealing a wide channel deep water where no waves broke.

Summary of William Finnegan s Barbarian Days

Summary of William Finnegan s Barbarian Days
Author: Everest Media,
Publsiher: Everest Media LLC
Total Pages: 72
Release: 2022-03-20T22:59:00Z
ISBN: 1669355934
Category: Sports & Recreation
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Summary of William Finnegan s Barbarian Days Book Excerpt:

Please note: This is a companion version & not the original book. Sample Book Insights: #1 I was a haole, or white, kid in a primarily Hawaiian school in Honolulu. The other kids made fun of me, and I didn’t have any friends. I was too scared to say anything. #2 I was sent to Kaimuki Intermediate School, a racially segregated school, where I was bullied and had no friends. I was bored in class, and spent most of my time watching the trees outside for wind direction and strength. #3 I was excited to be in Hawaii, and I was surprised by how little surf there was. The waves were small and dark-faced, and the wind offshore. I was worried about the coral reef off the beach. #4 I paddled west along a shallow lagoon, staying close to the shore, for half a mile. The beach houses ended, and the steep, brushy base of Diamond Head itself took their place across the sand. The reef on my left fell away, revealing a wide channel deep water where no waves broke.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
Author: William Finnegan
Publsiher: Hachette UK
Total Pages: 464
Release: 2015-08-06
ISBN: 1472151402
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Barbarian Days Book Excerpt:

Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. 'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated

Summer Cruising in the South Seas

Summer Cruising in the South Seas
Author: Charles Warren Stoddard
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 380
Release: 1874
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Oceania
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Summer Cruising in the South Seas Book Excerpt:

The Overland Monthly

The Overland Monthly
Author: Bret Harte
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 624
Release: 1870
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: California
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

The Overland Monthly Book Excerpt:

South sea Idyls

South sea Idyls
Author: Charles Warren Stoddard
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 360
Release: 1892
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Hawaii
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

South sea Idyls Book Excerpt:

Seventeen tales of various islands in the Pacific Ocean.

Bow Bells

Bow Bells
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 676
Release: 1867
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Electronic Book
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Bow Bells Book Excerpt:

Overland Monthly and Out West Magazine

Overland Monthly and Out West Magazine
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 592
Release: 1870
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: West (U.S.)
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Overland Monthly and Out West Magazine Book Excerpt:

Five Hundred Summer Stories

Five Hundred Summer Stories
Author: Greg MacGillivray
Publsiher: Simon and Schuster
Total Pages: 304
Release: 2022-11-15
ISBN: 1647227364
Category: Biography & Autobiography
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Five Hundred Summer Stories Book Excerpt:

The filmmaker of the surfing documentary Five Summer Stories and pioneer of the IMAX format tells stories from his adventurous life and groundbreaking career in Hollywood and beyond. Greg MacGillivray is a man with stories. Stories of being a surfer kid in California, and making his first movie at the age of 13; of his early days as a filmmaker, creating iconic surfing documentaries such as the cult classic 5 Summer Stories, with his partner in crime, Jim Freeman; of his years in Hollywood, working in Hollywood with such legends such as Stanley Kubrick (on The Shining, no less); and of his work pioneering the 70mm IMAX film format, creating some of the most spectacular, groundbreaking cinematography celebrating the natural world. There are stories of almost dying in New Guinea, flying into eyes of hurricanes, the perils of shooting in the USSR, and how filming Mount Everest changed his life. Greg MacGillivray has led a life like no other, - and for the first time, he’s telling his story. In this fascinating memoir, Greg chronicles his personal journey as an artist, a self-made filmmaker, a father, and an entrepreneur at the head of the most successful documentary production company in history. It is also a story about MacGillivray’s deep commitment to family, to ocean conservation, and to raising awareness about the importance of protecting our natural heritage for generations to come. Contributions by legendary surfers Gerry Lopez and Bill Hamilton, and filmmakers such as Stephen Judson and Brad Ohlund, plus 40 QR codes to extraordinary film clips, add give even more depth and perspective to this amazing journey. Greg’s compelling stories of adventure, surfing, love, loss, inspiration, conservation, and filmmaking give you a front seat to an extraordinary life - and, just like his IMAX movies, makes you feel as if you are there. EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS: Includes 40 QR codes linked to rare, incredible videos that bring Greg MacGillvray’s stories to life. BEHIND-THE-SCENES SECRETS: Learn the history of the IMAX film format, and how filmmakers achieve an immersive and awe-inspiring visual experience. FROM SURFER TO MOVIE LEGEND: Follow the journey of a man who went from a teenage surfer to the most successful documentary filmmaker in history with hundreds of amazing escapades and achievements in between.

Great Races of Mankind

Great Races of Mankind
Author: John Clark Ridpath
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 784
Release: 1893
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Ethnology
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Great Races of Mankind Book Excerpt:

Ridpath s Universal History

Ridpath s Universal History
Author: John Clark Ridpath
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 386
Release: 1897
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: World history
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Ridpath s Universal History Book Excerpt:

The West Aryans

The West Aryans
Author: John Clark Ridpath
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 135
Release: 1893
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Ethnology
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

The West Aryans Book Excerpt:

Frank Leslie s Popular Monthly

Frank Leslie s Popular Monthly
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 938
Release: 1896
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: American periodicals
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Frank Leslie s Popular Monthly Book Excerpt:

Littell s Living Age

Littell s Living Age
Author: Eliakim Littell,Robert S. Littell
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 848
Release: 1891
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Electronic Book
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Littell s Living Age Book Excerpt:

The Living Age

The Living Age
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 135
Release: 1894
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Electronic Book
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

The Living Age Book Excerpt:

Littell s Living Age

Littell s Living Age
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 842
Release: 1894
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: American periodicals
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Littell s Living Age Book Excerpt:

Living Age

Living Age
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 135
Release: 1894
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Electronic Book
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

Living Age Book Excerpt:

The Workingman s Guide and the Laborer s Friend and Advocate

The Workingman s Guide and the Laborer s Friend and Advocate
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 908
Release: 1886
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Aristocracy (Social class)
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

The Workingman s Guide and the Laborer s Friend and Advocate Book Excerpt:

" ... written expressly for the people, especially the workingmen, that is, the farmers, mechanics, laborers, and necessary traders and useful mental workers, and in open hostility to drones, and useless and wasteful, and idle and unnecessary aristocracy, that is living on the vitals of the people, and giving no good in return"--Page 5

The Utah Magazine

The Utah Magazine
Author: E. L. T. Harrison,W. S. Godby
Publsiher: Unknown
Total Pages: 650
Release: 1869
ISBN: 1928374650XXX
Category: Electronic Book
Language: EN, FR, DE, ES & NL

The Utah Magazine Book Excerpt: